Farway Milano

Farway Journal

Slow weekends in Lombardy: lakes, villages and quiet, made for families

Five slow weekends in Lombardy with the children: Lake Como without rushing, Monte Isola and Franciacorta, Mantua and the Mincio lakes, the hills of the Oltrepò and the garden side of Lake Garda. Plus advice on the right pace and what to pack.

10 June 2026

Wooden jetty on Lake Como in the early morning

There’s a way of travelling that works better with children than any tightly packed itinerary: choose one place, get there calmly and let the weekend fill itself up — with walks, stops, ice creams and nothing at all.

Lombardy is full of places like that: lakes that look painted, villages where you walk slowly, hills of vineyards and farmhouses. All less than two hours from Milan, all perfect for two slow days as a family.

We’ve chosen five, one for every mood.

In short:

  • Five slow weekends in Lombardy: Lake Como (Varenna and Bellagio), Lake Iseo with Monte Isola and Franciacorta, Mantua with the Mincio lakes, the Oltrepò Pavese and the Brescia side of Lake Garda.
  • All of them are 1–2 hours from Milan; Como and Mantua also on a direct train.
  • The right pace with children: one thing a day, sleep well, leave room for chance.
  • They work out of season too: September and October give you the best light and the villages at their quietest.

01 — Lake Como: Bellagio and Varenna without rushing

Wooden jetty on Lake Como in the morning with mountains in the background

On a day trip you go there and back in a day; over a weekend, the lake changes face. Sleeping in Varenna or Bellagio means watching them empty out in the evening, having dinner on the lakefront with your feet almost in the water and treating yourself to a ferry ride without watching the clock.

With children, the ferry triangle works well — Varenna, Bellagio, Menaggio: every crossing is a small journey, every village a hunt for the best ice cream. And the gardens of Villa Melzi, flat and looking out over the water, are made for slow running about.

  • Ideal for A first weekend on the lake
  • Time from Milan 1 hour (train to Varenna)
  • The best moment The lake in the evening, when the tourists leave

02 — Lake Iseo and Franciacorta: islands and vineyards

Vineyard hills in Franciacorta in the late afternoon light

A weekend in two parts: Saturday on the water, on Monte Isola, where there are no cars and you get around by bicycle between fishing villages; Sunday among the hills of Franciacorta, where the roads roll between the rows of vines and the farmhouses serve long lunches at tables in the garden.

It’s the right choice when you want a bit of everything — lake, island, countryside — without ever driving more than half an hour.

  • Ideal for Bicycles and lunch at the farmhouse
  • Time from Milan 1 hour 15
  • The best moment The morning ferry crossing

03 — Mantua and the Mincio lakes

The outline of Mantua seen from the lake with towers and domes reflected in the water

Mantua is a city of water: arriving over the bridge across the Mincio lakes, with the towers reflected below, is already half the wonder. The centre is small, flat and almost entirely pedestrian — perfect for short legs — and Palazzo Te, with its giant frescoes and tricks of perspective, enchants a five-year-old too.

On Sunday morning, the boat along the Mincio glides between the reed beds and the water lilies: herons, turtles and silence. A small safari on the plain.

  • Ideal for Art and boats through the reeds
  • Time from Milan 2 hours on a direct train
  • The best moment The Mincio cruise among the water lilies

04 — Oltrepò Pavese: hills, castles and farmhouses

Hills of the Oltrepò Pavese with vineyards and a farmhouse among the trees

South of the Po, Lombardy turns into Tuscany without knowing it: soft hills, vineyards, real castles — Zavattarello, Oramala — and farm stays where children spend the weekend among cats, tractors and endless afternoon snacks.

It’s the slowest weekend of them all: nothing you have to see, everything to live. A walk between the rows of vines, a stone village, a lunch that lasts an afternoon.

  • Ideal for Farm stays and life on the farm
  • Time from Milan 1 hour 15
  • The best moment Breakfast at the farmhouse, with no set time

05 — The Brescia side of Lake Garda: Salò, Gardone and the gardens

The Lombard shore of Lake Garda moves at a more graceful, quieter pace: the lakefront promenade in Salò is very long and flat, perfect with a pushchair, and in Gardone Riviera the Heller botanical garden is a small world of little bridges, ponds full of carp and plants from every continent — children remember it for years.

Between one village and the next, the ferries stitch the shore together: you go to lunch by water and come back by water, which is always the best part.

  • Ideal for Lakefront walks and botanical gardens
  • Time from Milan 1 hour 30
  • The best moment The Heller garden just as it opens

The right pace for a weekend with children

The secret of a good weekend isn’t the destination: it’s the pace. A few rules learned in the field:

  • One thing a day. An island, a garden, a boat. The rest is time gained, not lost.
  • Sleeping well counts for more than dining well. A comfortable, quiet room pays back the whole weekend — if you’re looking for ideas, here are our design family hotels in Italy.
  • The journey is part of the holiday. Trains and boats wherever possible: children love them and parents get to rest.
  • Leave room for chance. The best moments of a slow weekend were never on the plan.

The small (and right) suitcase

Two days ask for very little: comfortable pieces in natural fibres that wash and dry quickly, one more change of clothes than you expect to need, a sweatshirt or a cardigan for the evening by the water — even in summer the lakes turn cool — and shoes already broken in.

The Farway pieces made for days like these are in the Weekend by the Lake collection: natural, hard-wearing and good-looking even in Monday’s photos.

Frequently asked questions

Which weekend is the easiest to organise without a car?

Lake Como: a direct train as far as Varenna, ferries to move around, everything on foot. Mantua is perfect too — direct train and a pedestrian centre.

Which destination should you choose with a baby?

The Oltrepò Pavese: farmhouse rhythms, quiet walks, no crowds. Or Salò, with its flat, shaded lakefront promenade, ideal with a pushchair.

Do these weekends work out of season too?

Yes, and often better: in September and October the lakes are in their most beautiful light, the villages go quiet again and the farmhouses light their fires. All it takes is one extra jacket in the case.

A slow weekend isn’t about doing little: it’s about doing the right things, with all the time they deserve.

More stories from the Journal